Monday, June 17, 2019

It's All Good In The Hood: Drafting a 14th Century Closed Hood (Summer University 2019)

If you know me, you probably know I love hoods. They're probably my favorite thing to make and one of the most useful articles of clothing you can own in the SCA.

Before my first event way back when, I stayed up til 4am making myself a dress. I took along a Skoldehjamn hood I had made at one of the baronial meetings just in case, even though I thought that with the extra fabric I would be hot. I genuinely could not think of a reason to wear that thing. At the event, I wore it all day. A single layer of linen kept the sun off my face and didn't make me too overheated. I was a hood convert.

The very next thing I made was a fully handsewn hood based on the pattern by Katafalk. It was meant to have buttons but never quite ended up with them...even so, it sent me down a rabbit hole of creating hoods of all sorts.

Fast forward to last weekend at Juniversity: I taught a class on how to draft and put together a hood based on your own personal measurements. I had friends with smaller heads and with larger heads who weren't able to fit into "off the rack" hoods or hood patterns and it was their problem that inspired me to create this class, because, honestly, everyone needs a hood.

My basic pattern


Handout Link: It's All Good In The Hood: Drafting a 14th Century Closed Hood

Above is linked the PDF of my class handout. It has diagrams and instructions to create a basic 14th century hood that pulls on over the head, with or without a liripipe. I included bonus tips on how to
"raise the level" of your hood by cutting dags, adding a button closure, or embroidering an historically correct design on it. I would like to have a step by step guide with either photos or illustrations demonstrating how exactly to draft the pattern and to assemble the hood, but that is for another day.

Please enjoy the pattern and handout and let me know if you have any questions. I am very happy to give advice or insight! Feel free to contact me via my email eadythwoderose@gmail.com!

Friday, June 14, 2019

SCA Curriculum Vitae

A brief CV/resume of my SCA accomplishments, to be updated as they occur.

AWARDS:

Award of Arms - Storvik Novice - 7/9/2016
Court Baroness - Ruby Joust VI - 5/27/2017
Grant of Arms - Ruby Joust VI - 5/27/2017
Augmentation of Arms (golden scissors) - Ruby Joust VI - 5/27/2017
Companion of La Bris de Mer (Caer Mear) - Yule - 12/9/2017
Companion of the Coral Branch - Ruby Joust VII - 5/26/2018
Award of the Fountain - Pennsic XLVII - 8/7/2018

Eadyth Woderose in Atlantian Order of Precedence

POSITIONS HELD:

Deputy Chatelaine - Barony of Caer Mear - ___ to Fall 2017
Minister of Arts and Sciences - Barony of Caer Mear - Fall 2017 to current

CLASSES TAUGHT:

Braided Hairstyles of the 14th Century - Fall University 2017
It's All Good In The Hood: Drafting a 14th Century Closed Hood - Summer University 2019

Monday, May 21, 2018

Embroidered Panel for an Alms Purse of the Late 14th century


Boy its been a loooong time since I last posted in here!
Here is my documentation for my latest project which I have been working on for 75 hours spread out over about a month! Its a project I have wanted to do for a looooong time. I finally decided to sit down and get it done to enter in the Tempore Atlantia at Spring Crown Tourney!

Eventually I will make this into a proper pouch. I am already making up the tassels (all covered in gold!) and I have bought the most delightful silk to make the backing and the lining. Hopefully I will have this done by Ruby Joust!


*****

Background: Extant Purses and the Danse Macabre

Alms purses (also known in French as aumonières) were a type of decorative pouch worn by both men and women throughout the fourteenth century. Elaborate pouches and girdles and other accessories to be worn on the body were common gifts to be exchanged between lovers (Camille 53). It makes sense that a popular scene to decorate these purses would be scenes of lovers. There are examples stretching back to the twelfth century, though the surviving examples seem to be most commonly from the fourteenth century. There are two styles that are common: a sort of trapezoid shape with a flap to cover the opening and a simple square or rectangular drawstring pouch. The rectangular pouch, as shown in Figure 1, is what I chose to recreate. This style of pouch generally features a pair of central figures and minimal background details along with a band at top for the drawstring and many tassels around the sides and bottom.


Figure 1: Embroidered French Alms Purse, 1340s located in the Museum fuer Kunst und Gewerbe, Hamburg


Between the near-constant warfare, famine, and the Black Death, the late fourteenth century was not a pleasant place to be. The Danse Macabre was a theme in artwork that grew out of this omnipresence of death, depicting skeletons dancing with people from every walk of life from a child to a king to the Pope. It was meant to remind people to repent for their sins and not to live wickedly as death was around every corner and could come for someone at any time, any age, and any station in life (see the article on the Three Living and the Three Dead).

Figure 2: Three Living and Three Dead, the De Lisle Psalter, England. 1304-1340

Designing My Embroidery

My piece is an amalgamation of these two artistic conventions. My embroidered panel has two figures and minimal background elements (like the above alms purse) but instead of a pair of lovers, I chose to depict a Danse Macabre scene featuring Death and the maiden. The scene is a bit autobiographical as I depicted the maiden as myself. I embroidered long flowing hair, a coronet, and a green kirtle to symbolize youth and to provide greater contrast with the stark white figure of Death. The style I used would date the piece to the very end of the 14th century; between 1380 and 1400.


Figure 23Detail of Death from a 1373-1387 French tapestry in The Bridgeman Art Library

The extant pouch as seen in Figure 1, which dates to the 1340s, is embroidered in silk and gold threads on a linen ground. It measures approximately 6.25 inches by 5.5 inches, being slightly taller than it is wide. My piece ended up being 6.25 inches by 5.25 inches due to the size of my frame and is worked in DMC cotton thread with metal-wrapped thread on a linen ground. I made sure to choose colors that are historically plausible and could have been dyed with materials from the period. I based the color scheme on manuscripts and tapestries. Note the rich red background seen in Figure 2 depicting the skeleton on horseback. I have worked with silk floss in the past and it does perform differently than cotton, but I chose the DMC thread for economy and durability (I didn’t want to be afraid to actually use this pouch in my SCA life). The linen is from my stash and is a little more loosely woven than the linen used in period. Again, the departure was for economy as I already had this linen.

The figures and the vegetation on the extant pouch (Figure 1) are worked in split stitch while the background consists of surface-couched gold work. More surface couching and hand bound eyelets make up a band at the top used to hold the drawstrings. I used the same stitches: split stitch for the figures and the towers and surface couching for the drawstring panel and the gold threads. Since I did not have as much gold on hand, I used a background fill technique similar to that shown in the pouch in Figure 4 in which threads are laid parallel to each other across the background and then couched down by a grid of crossing parallel stitches couched in a diamond pattern. Another reason I chose this style of background fill is that it would put my pouch more firmly in the late 14th century time block that I was aiming for.


Figure 4: Embroidered purse with a dog, 1398, Stadtmuseum of Koln. The background fill stitch used is similar to the one I chose for my piece.

The Process of Stitching the Pouch

The steps I took to complete this panel began with designing the cartoon or image from which I would work. I gathered images of skeletons and women in manuscript illustrations and extant embroidery of the period and eventually designed something unique. Next, I hemmed my linen and stretched it on the frame that would hold it taut while I worked on it.


Then I sketched the design onto it lightly in pencil. In period, the design might have been transferred by the prick and pounce method in which the design was drawn on paper and then pricked with holes, and finally dusted with a fine dark powder such as charcoal, colored chalk, or graphite to transfer the cartoon. In the 2016 video released by the Victoria and Albert Museum depicting an artist working a similar style of embroidery, she then paints over the design in ink since the charcoal may rub off too easily and the entire ground would be covered in embroidery anyway.

The order in which I completed the embroidery was: maiden, skeleton, towers, red background, brown background, tawny drawstring band, the eyelets, and lastly the gold couching. I chose to put gold on the coronet and belt as fill because I had never worked with it before and was curious as to how it would work. As I looked more closely at the extant, I noticed that there is also gold couched along the hem of the woman’s gown. I decided that more gold is always a great idea and applied it to the hem of the gown as well.



This piece will eventually become the front of a small pouch. The extant example consisted of two panels of embroidery, front and back, and a lining. The cords used on the extant seem to be simple twisted cords. Others are done as a simple fingerloop braid. The tassels are also done in silk and have some sort of gilt braid over them, which I will have to look at more closely before I move on to that part of the process.



Sources:
"Aumonieres and Purses from Germany." St Thomas Guild, 27 Nov. 2013, thomasguild.blogspot.ca/  2013/11/aumonieres-and-purses-from-germany.html.

Camille, Michael. The Medieval Art of Love. New York, Harry N Abrams Inc, 1998.
McGann, Tasha. "Aumônières, otherwise known as alms purses." La Cotte Simple, cottesimple.com/articles/ aumonieres/.

Taylor-Davies, Rose. The Making of Medieval Embroidery, The Victoria and Albert Museum, 2016, https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=JgN7osGCf5g

"The Three Living and the Three Dead." The British Library, blogs.bl.uk/digitisedmanuscripts/2014/ 01/the-three-living-and-the-three-dead.html.

Saturday, February 10, 2018

SCA Business Cards!

Blurred out my last name ;)

In the interest of sharing the fun and joy the SCA has brought me and since I am taking on a new, more visible role in my home Barony (more on that later as I get warranted!), I decided to get some business cards for my SCA persona. These will come in handy when I teach a class or when I want to quickly and easily exchange information with someone I've just met. They'll also work well as "calling cards" to say "I was here" or "I appreciated your work." I want to get some small, inexpensive charms to attach as tokens or something to leave at A+S displays.

Let's talk about the design. I looked at other SCAdian business cards and decided what I liked best. I featured my heraldry and my SCA name front and center since those are the most important. I also included my highest award. If I had any relevant Kingdom awards, I would have included them as well. Anyone with a grant-level or peerage-level award will want to include those on their card.

Next, I added my location. This is good for networking and helps folks in nearby (or far away) baronies know where you are for networking or guest-teaching purposes.

I also added a link to this blog (which I am working hard on making relevant and worth of being included on my card!) and my SCA email (which redirects to my main without cluttering up my main account). My Instagram is linked as well, in case anyone wants to follow my more mundane art projects and my beautiful fat orange cat child, Butterbean.

At the very bottom I have my skills and interests, so folks with similar interests or questions will know what to geek with me about. I love to get my geek on about Arts and Sciences (ok mostly arts).

Please bring your cards and trade with me at events in the future!!! I would really love to build up a collection of all my favorite people and to meet new people as well!

Wednesday, January 24, 2018

2018 Events and Plans

Here are a list of events I want to attend this year and what I would like to have accomplished by that event.

A Market Day at Birka, Jan 26-28 - Barony of Stonemarche, East Kingdom (NH)
I have been sponsored to attend Birka as one of HRH Una's dedicated ladies in waiting! I am really excited not only because I have always wanted to attend Birka but because this is my very first East Kingdom event!
Tournament of Ymir, Feb 23-25 - Barony of Windmasters Hill (NC)
My household is attending this event together. We went last year as well and it was unseasonably warm. I would like to have my commission for Lord Pietro finished by this event.
Kingdom Arts and Sciences Festival, March 3 - Barony of Stierbach (VA)
I am attending this with either my Laurel or my Baroness. It's so close by (an hour or so drive) that it's almost impossible not to attend! I have always wanted to go to KASF but the first time I was in England and the second time it was in SC, aka too far for me to travel. I will probably retain for HRH Una again at this event, since she has never judged A&S before and I think I could be helpful to her. I would like to have my new hood and documentation finished by this event so I could display.
Coronation of Dietrich and Una, April 6-8 - Barony of Windmaster's Hill (NC)
Haven't decided with whom I will be attending this event, but I am definitely going. I am really excited to support my friends as they step up as King and Queen of Atlantia! I would like to have some Middle Eastern garb finished in time for this event since HRH want to do a Middle Eastern theme for their reign.
Revenge of the Stitch, April 27-29 - Spiaggia Levantina (MD)
This is sort of a wishlist event for me. I have been asked to be a part of a team by Lady Syele von Dampach to create a suit of garb over the weekend. The plan is to make a really lovely German outfit. I would have to get the Friday off work, however, to get allllll the way up north.
Ruby Joust, May 25-28 - Barony of Caer Mear (VA)
I think technically this event may be taking place in Tir-y-Don, but whatever, its our event! I will be on staff at this event as MoAS. I will be stepping up as Barony MoAS soon and this will be my first event running the A&S displays and contests and coordinating all of that. I would like to have a new Gothic Fitted Gown finished by then since I have the blue one already cut out and partially sewn together, but I also have to help create the site tokens and I would like to have work done on my "boy's clothes" as well...but more on that later!
Summer University, June 16 - Barony of Black Diamond (VA)
University is the best event hands down. I love showing up and learning new things. I would like to have one of the outfits I did not finish in time for Ruby done in time to wear to this event and I would like to teach a class on my square hood and reprise my 14th century hair course- which will be much improved now that I have a better grasp on class size and timing!
Pennsic XLVII, War Week (Aug 3-12) - Aethelmarc (PA)
Obviously Pennsic is one of the highlights of a SCAdian's year. It would be amazing if I could teach a class at Pennsic University and to do waterbearing during the big field battle! I would like to have boy's clothes and more Middle Eastern clothing ready for this event. I also need to get a second job to help pay for the trip! It would be very awesome to be able to take my own vehicle up to the event this year.
Fall University, Sept 15
Fall Coronation, Oct 6
The locations of these events are not announced yet. I would like to go to either or both but it depends on the location. Again, I would like to teach at least one class at University and have at least one item of new garb (even an accessory, since I want to do an embroidery piece sometime this year as well).
War of the Wings, Oct 19-21 - Barony of Sacred Stone (NC)
I didn't get to hit this event last year and it was a huge bummer. This was my first camping event many years ago and it holds a special place in my heart.
Fall Crown, Nov 3
See above...location isn't listed yet so I am not sure if I will attend. The local group has discussed putting in a bid so I may well wind up assisting.
Holiday Faire, Nov 17 - Barony of Stierbach (VA)
This is another event I really like that I hit up every year. Hopefully I will have some disposable income by then because there are always lovely lovely things that I NEED at this event.
Unevent, Dec 1
Another event with no location listed, but an event that as a Baronial officer I will be required to attend. I would like to have a project ready to take along to this event: handsewing or embroidery.

Looks like a good year to me! Can't wait to get out there!

Monday, February 22, 2016

My SCA Journey

I first heard about the SCA way back in 2007 or so in my tender impressionable teenage years. I went to a demonstration in Virginia Beach (I later learned that this was the Barony of Marinus) where I was bedazzled by the garb and the shiny armor of the fighters. They kindly invited me to join them, but school and work and lack of transportation got in the way.

In 2012 or 2013 I rediscovered the SCA through costuming blogs (an obsession of mine...is it any wonder I've started my own?) and in 2013 I contacted my local group and made my first foray into Caer Mear. It was during the reign of Amos and Ysabella, so I was introduced to the Baron and Baroness as well as the King and the Queen all on my first visit to the SCA, which was more than a little overwhelming. I have some social anxiety, so I brought along a friend. Even with that support, I was too nervous to speak to people properly and get to know them. My friend made an instant connection by starting heavy fighting under the tutelage of the excellent fighters of Caer Mear, but its a little harder to sit in a room of friends doing arts and sciences and to make a space for oneself. Eventually I drifted away and stopped going.

In 2014 I went to my first event on a whim. Two events were happening that day: a Regency picnic at Maymont and Ruby Joust. I wasn't sure which one to pick, but I think I might have made the right choice. I whipped up a simple Bocksten tunic dress in a plum colored linen and paired it with a blue linen Skoldehamn hood (I was very grateful for that hood as the day went on!) that I had made on a whim in a class taught at one of the baronial A&S meetings months and months ago. I made another Bocksten tunic for my boyfriend at the time and away we went to daytrip the event. It was hard to know what to do at the event, but I vaguely recognized some people from practice and they vaguely recognized me so I ended up being able to spin yarn (it is very lumpy but I have it still!) and listen in on a bardic circle to some excellent singers and storytellers. I even attended court, starry-eyed in delight at the pomp and circumstance.

After that, it was a whirlwind of involvement. I, by happenstance, acquired a SCAdian roommate. Thanks to him, I managed to attend Bacon Wars, was coerced to camp for the first time at War of the Wings (with the excellent Wandering Turnip Farmers), and tasted my first mead.

In 2015, I decided on a name and a rough persona and became Eadyth Woderose, an English lady of the late 14th century. I also attended five events that year and met incredible new people who became my incredible friends.

Now, in 2016, I aim to expand on my persona. Who is Eadyth? What does she do? More than that, I want to expand my garb closet and improve my period impression. I currently wear gothic fitted gowns aka GFDs aka bust-supportive cottes made of linen. I want to venture into wool and more economic cutting techniques and hand-bound buttonholes. I want to improve my embroidery. I want to perform in public without being TOO petrified. Who knows what this year has in store?